Alpine: Gateway to the Big Bend

Source: Odessa American, TexasJuly 28--Alpine On a steamy Saturday night, the Road Boss Boys -- a trio of traveling implement salesmen -- stopped off at The Saddle Club bar in Alpine for a few cold pints.self storageTwo of the men teamed up against Joe Neil Henderson, nicknaming him "Mr. Alpine" without his consent, because he had once lived in the town of 6,000 people just 2.5 hours south of Odessa and was born nearby in Van Horn. Alpine is the gateway to Big Bend National Park."This is a good place. Everybody knows everybody. Very down-to-earth people," Henderson said.The Road Boss Boys were just passing through on business from Decatur rattling off some of the go-to spots in the area: the Kokernot Field was a must-see, they said. It's where the professional baseball team, the Alpine Cowboys of the Pecos League, packs the replica of Chicago's Wrigley Field in a scaled-down 1,400 seat stadium that sits a short winding drive from Sul Ross University."When I know people are coming to West Texas, I tell them, 'Go to Alpine.' You can do it in a half-day even," Henderson said.Cattlemen established the 4.7 square miles of Alpine, though it previously went by Osborne and Murphyville in the early days, in 1882. The railroad brought in settlers who would camp nearby for the natural springs and tall feeding grasses available. Remnants of the cowboy town remain."You can meet real cowboys out here. A lot of Alpine still live the real cowboy life," Calvin Jackson said, who sat in a cowhide chair next to Henderson and Alan Sessions. Cowboy boots and cowboy hats found in The Saddle Club aren't required in Alpine, but they're as oft seen as tumbleweeds.Alpine is the closest passenger train station to the Permian Basin, connecting the heart of Big Bend to the South for a day-tripper. The population brings the median age somewhere between college age and retirement, which make up the largest portion, Abby Garza said, the interim executive director at the Alpine Visitor's Center. She came to Alpine to attend Sul Ross and never left. That was 11 years ago."I love the climate. The people. The area is really great. Big Bend ... there's more to do than people think," she said. Her quick "to do list" in the area includes: locating all the murals in town, taking in the Museum of the Big Bend, catching the mysterious Marfa Lights, going to a star party at the McDonald Observatory and checking out Fort Davis.The town remains small and tight-knit. Just think, some exciting news in Alpine lately was the opening of two donut shops in town, filling a void after years without one. The community isn't booming like the Permian Basin, Garza said, but has brought in some new families looking for a slower pace.Tonya Tiday and her daughters Ashton, 10 and baby Emory, six months, sat together on the patio of the Century Bar and Grill, the historic Holland Hotel's restaurant on a recent summer weekend evening. Ashton and Emory munched on fries; Tonya gushed over being able to dine in a summer dress and without wearing much makeup.She, her husband and girls moved from Dallas for work about a month ago. Tiday, an event planner, is excited to step away from the rat race and slow down a bit."There's so much talent out here," Tiday said.Big Bend is their playground now, where they can kayak and hike to their heart's desire."It's the best-kept secret in Texas," she said.A few blocks from the Holland is one of the local's favorite watering holes (and where the Road Boss Boys congregate) -- The Saddle Club. Before a bar and through the years, it was a pet store, shoe store, gym, saddle shop and hardware store. Chef Stephen Wood took the building by the bolts and straightened it out."We wanted to do drinks, wine, some food but it turned into a whole lot more food than we expected," Wood said. The kitchen is small but cranks out a hearty menu each night, thanks to Wood's guidance and palette. He's started restaurants in New Orleans, worked at the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas and more recently the Gage Hotel in Alpine before partnering with the owner of the Granada Theatre to get Saddle Club established."The locals demanded it," Wood said about the fuller menu. "They're looking for a change. They're looking for something a little different. The community pushed us to be more of a restaurant. I don't mind it. I didn't get this big eating salads," Wood said, looking toward his mid-section.Wood sees the inside of The Saddle Club more than his eyelids, his 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. shift is constant. His philosophy is simple."Life's too short to eat bad food and drink cheap liquor," he said. "The good parties always ended up in the kitchen. That's where we brought it back to. That small-town feel but with a worldly atmosphere," he said.Alpine, itself, is no different. People travel from across the globe to get a glimpse of a West Texas town. If you time it right, the Road Boss Boys might just by you a drink.EAT IN ALPINE--The Saddle Club: The full service bar wanted to be just that: a watering hole, but locals demanded more after the food impressed and paired well with a cold beer or strong margarita. Chef Stephen Wood has worked in New Orleans, the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas and is making a name now in Alpine. The limited menu change seasonally and despite its tapas description there's nothing small about the epic fries ($10) or loaded twice-baked potato ($10). Casual spot not just for townies, who will probably strike up a conversation with passersby; stay for hours, service keeps to the slow pace of the town. Sample menu: Fried to fresh choices, Taco Tuesdays $6 for two tacos, beans and salad; they cater too, from prime rib sliders to pulled pork taquitos. Get there: 211 East Holland Ave. Open 4 p.m. to midnight. Monday through Friday; 1 p.m. to midnight Saturday; 432-837-9770.--Cow Dog: The social media dust-up stands: Which hot迷你倉dog from the Cow Dog food truck is best? From the "Bad" Dog (green chilies, pepper jack cheese, Srircha sauce), the "German" (sauerkraut, bacon, spicy brown mustard, caraway seed) or the "Hangover" (bacon, sharp cheddar, hot sauce, chili sauce, Fritos) -- the toppings on a 100 percent grilled beef hot dog are for you to drool over. They have vegetarian options as well. The food truck parks outside of Plaine coffee shop on Holland Avenue and Third Street and hibernates in June. Sample menu: Special dogs (big $5.50) are enough for a hungry couple to share, or make your own with these toppings: chili dog sauce, pico de gallo, sharp cheddar, sauerkraut, bacon. Get there: 215 E. Holland Ave. Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Thursday through Saturday; 432-386-0616; http://cowdogdog.com.--Century Bar and Grill: Steps away from the Amtrak station and part of the lovely Holland Hotel, the casual restaurant is one of the finer places to dine in town. Owners describe the mood akin to New York City, though perhaps in slow motion. Food and wine is enjoyed al fresco on the large patio under twinkle lights and your room at the Holland is just steps away. Sample menu: Grilled quail appetizer ($13), chicken fried steak with chorizo ($20), grilled tenderloin with tomato mushroom ragu, whipped potatoes, broccolini and hollandaise sauce ($34). Get there: 209 W. Holland Ave. Open 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. (Friday and Saturday dinner is served until 10 p.m.) Bar is open 5 p.m. to midnight weekdays and 11 a.m. to midnight weekends; 432-837-1922.STAY IN ALPINE--The Maverick Inn: The roadhouse for wanderers once was run-down as some locals described, but the hotel built in the 1930s has been revamped and is in a prime location in the heart of the town. Walking distance from restaurants and coffee shops, the 21-room Maverick is styled Southwestern rustic with new amenities. Get there: 1200 E. Holland Ave. 432-837-0628; rates from $96 to $127 a night; www.themaverickinn.com.--The Holland Hotel: Antiques are on display in every space at the Holland Hotel. It's a Spanish style charmer that's been around since 1928, but went under total renovation a few years ago. The luster of the old isn't lost. It has the feel of Old West but all modern-day conveniences. Get there: 209 W. Holland Ave. 432-837-2800; rates from $105 to $195 a night; http://thehollandhoteltexas.com.--Antelope Lodge: If you're more inclined to choose a Motel 6 over a Hilton, try the gem Antelope Lodge, a restored motor court built in 1949. Each cottage has a kitchenette and while it might not be a photo-op like the other historic hotels in town, it's a comfortable choice for families and pets. Get there: 2310 W. Highway 90; 432-837-2451; rooms are about $60 a night; www.antelopelodge.com/index.htm.SEE ALPINE--Woodward Ranch: Go rock-hunting for the famed Red Plume Agate that occurs naturally in the Big Bend area. The ranch staff will narrate the history and help find your own gemstone ($6 per person). It's one of the few public ranches still operating with Texas Longhorns on the property. Rent a cabin for the night too. Get there: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and by appointment. 432-364-2271 or paradiseranch5@hotmail.com.--Sul Ross University: The college was created by an act of the 35th Legislature in 1917 with the college opening in 1920 after construction that cost $200,000. About 2,000 students come onto campus each school year mostly to study biology, geology and range animal science and emphasis on Chihuahuan Desert studies. The Museum of the Big Bend is on the campus too; admission is free. Go to a play or a sporting event. The annual Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering is held on the campus as well. Get there: East Highway 90; 432-837-8011; www.sulross.edu.--Railroad Blues: Called one of the best small-town music joints in the country and Blender magazine named it one of the most rock 'n' roll towns in America, the Railroad Blues in Alpine is a mainstay for West Texans. The venue has hosted the likes of Arlo Guthrie, Gary P. Nunn, Pat Green, Cross Canadian Ragweed, Jason Boland & The Stragglers. Open 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Saturday; next shows scheduled: Today is last show of Viva Big Bend Music Festival with Doodlin' Hogwallops, Thieving Birds and Folk Family Revival; Aug. 2, The Sideshow Tragedy; Aug. 3, Doug Moreland and the Flying Armadillos; Aug. 9, Lily Maase and The High Life Band. Get there: 504 W. Holland Ave.; 432-837-3103; www.railroadblues.com/index.html.WORTH MENTIONING--Historic tours: Take the historic walking or windshield tour; pick up a map at the Visitor's Center, 106 North Third St. Windshield tour will take you from a 100-year-old church, to Victorian homes to a natural spring. The walking tour features 44 sites that cover Second through Eighth Streets and is a good way to see architecture and history, plus shopping and restaurants.--Terlingua Chili Cook-Off: The first weekend of November is a chili fans' heartiest of dreams when 20,000 people gather for the annual chili cook-off in the enclave south of Alpine. There's live music, contests and plenty to fill your stomach. Get there on Oct. 31, Nov. 1 and Nov. 2; call 817-653-0988 for more information.--Hot air balloons on parade: Join for the 26th annual Big Bend Balloon Bash this Labor Day weekend (Aug. 31, Sept. 1, Sept. 2). It's free and open to the public but pets are not allowed. Gates open at the Alpine-Casparis Airport at 7 a.m., flying starts at 7:30 a.m. to 10 a.m. with a fire concert at 8 p.m. For more information, go to http://bigbendballoonbash.com.--Contact Lindsay Weaver on twitter at @OAschools, on Facebook at OA Lindsay Weaver or call 432-333-7781.Copyright: ___ (c)2013 the Odessa American (Odessa, Texas) Visit the Odessa American (Odessa, Texas) at www.oaoa.com Distributed by MCT Information Services文件倉