2013年8月23日星期五

Eastern eats

A few new East Asian eateries, notably Thai, Korean and Vietnamese, have recently opened their doors to serve up bright flavors in casual settings.迷你倉出租 Chachawan (Tel: 2549-0020) at 206 Hollywood Road introduces Isaan cuisine to local diners. Heading the kitchen of the cozy, no-service-charge- and-no-reservation eatery is experienced Thai cuisine chef Adam Cliff, who worked at Nahm in London and Bangkok and Bo.Lan Bangkok before taking the helm at Kha Singapore. Isaan, which is in the northeastern part of Thailand, bordering Laos and Cambodia, is surrounded by mountains. In this rural agricultural setup rice is mainly grown. "Life is simple there, so is the cuisine - raw and down-to-earth," Cliff says. If you are expecting the usual coconut curries and tom yum soup, be prepared to be amazed. Isaan is famous for its flavorful salads and tender grilled meats. Cliff describes his cuisine at Chachawan as "a sweet-salt-sour-heat smackdown." Isaan locals favor using lots of mint, coriander, shallots, fish sauce and chili for seasonings. The green papaya salad with sweet and sour tamarind dressing (starting from HK$88) is boldly seasoned and spicy. Dried shrimp adds a briny kick while the sweet cherry tomatoes help tone down the heat. You can choose to pair the salad with pork, prawns or salted duck's egg. Nahm dok nuer (HK$128), a spicy, grilled wagyu beef salad with fish sauce and toasted rice dressing, and yum makuar yaw (HK$138), grilled river prawns salad sided with smoky eggplant, are some of the cold dishes at the eatery. Cliff throws a few seafood delights onto the menu to cater for those who might have a craving - Isaan is an inland region and seafood is not commonly available. His brilliant interpretation of pla phao glua (HK$248) is beyond tasty. Stuffed with lemongrass, pandan and lime leaf, a whole sea bass is crusted with salt and cooked over fire. All the juices of the fish are locked within the crusty skin, keeping the meat moist and flavorful. The addictive green chili dipping sauce gives the right amount of heat to the taste buds. Meanwhile, with 86 branches around the globe, the trendy Korean snack food restaurant chain School Food (Tel: 2480-3666) has finally arrived in Hong Kong. Less than a month after its opening, there is already a long queue outside this chic eatery on the 13th floor of Times Square every day. However, the name School Food does not imply that this place serves the kind of food they have in Korean schools. Instead, it is more like food that students would go for after school hours. The eatery offers a range of popular Korean snack food, such as topokki (braised rice cake) and kimbap (Korea儲存倉 rolled sushi), but with its own take. Instead of calling them kimbap, these rolled sushi are called mari. Chef Sonny Huh explains that mari is "a bite- sized kimbap prepared with a secret sauce and innovative combinations of ingredients." Spam mari II (HK$62) is a roll of spam, mozzarella cheese and egg, while the deep black squid ink mari (HK$68) turns out to be an interesting option. Topokki, as it is generally known, is braised in a red sweet and spicy sauce with slices of fish cake stirred in. School Food serves a similar version, except that the dish is fiery in taste, closely adhering to its Chinese name, which is "spicy-as-hell braised rice cake" (HK$62). The English name, Street Topokki, does not give away too much. Even though there is a hint of sweetness, it is still a dish for the brave palate. Those who prefer a non-spicy option can go for the soy carbonara topokki (HK$68). Imagine a rich, creamy carbonara, with the pasta replaced by Korean rice cakes. It is a delicious and comforting East-meets-West creation where you will want to scrape every last bit of sauce from the plate. School naengmyeon (HK$70) is a Korean-style dish of cold noodles with slushie in the bowl. The ice will melt over time, and the soup base will then be less strong and spicy but still amazing. The noodles have a characteristic bouncy texture. The chicken gangjeong green onion salad (HK$78) is among the best items on the menu. The fried chicken is crispy and juicy, while the salad on the side can take away the oiliness of the chicken, or it is delectable enough on its own. Lastly, ChomChom (Tel: 2810-0850), a Vietnamese bar and eatery, reopened last month at 58 Peel Street. Previously in Wellington Street, this small private kitchen serves modern Vietnamese food. The new ChomChom aims to bring you a bia hoi-inspired experience - a new concept by founder and chef Peter Cuong Franklin. Bia hoi (bia means beer and hoi means gas) is a type of draft beer that is popular in Vietnam. Freshly brewed daily, it contains less than 3 percent alcohol and 50 percent rice, which keeps the taste light and clear. "The term is more commonly used to define the social experience of enjoying a local beer with friends or family on the side of the street," Franklin says. ChomChom also serves a diverse range of Vietnamese street snacks to go with the beer. Grilled beef in betel leaf (HK$88) and crispy salt and pepper squid with Sriracha mayo (HK$78) are some of the yummy small bites to have with your drink. Other highlights include spicy tuna rolls with XO sauce (HK$78) and Vietnamese shaking beef with watercress and rocket salad (HK$158). mercy.lo@singtaonewscorp.com 迷你倉沙田

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